| Welcome to the help centre. Here you will find answers to the most commonly asked questions: Pricing & Delivery Q. Why is livefood so inexpensive on this site?
A. We try to bring you the best prices Q. Is your livefood fresh?
A. Yes. All our livefood is sent out fresh from the farm every day throughout the year. Q. Are you sure I wont be charged postage?
A. There are no hidden postage charges on Global Live Food, the price you see is the price you pay. Q. Do you offer any further discounts?
A. Yes. If you want to place a large order (£100 min) we can work out a knock down price for you. Q. When will I get my livefood?
A. Within 1 - 3 days (Royal Mail First Class). here's a breakdown of the order and delivery days
Order Mondays before 12 noon - delivered Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday
Order Mondays after 12 noon - delivered Wednesday, Thursday & Fridays Order Tuesdays before 12 noon - delivered - Wednesday, Thursday & Fridays
Order Tuesdays after 12 noon - delivered Thursday, Friday, Saturday & Monday Order Wednesdays before 12 noon - delivered Thursday, Friday, Saturday & Monday
Order Wednesdays after 12 noon - delivered Friday, Saturday & Monday Order Thursdays before 12 noon - delivered Friday, Saturday, Monday & Tuesday
Order Thursdays after 12 noon - as per Monday All orders on Fridays and weekend - treated as Monday orders Days above in bold are the usual delivery days, for the purpose of claiming; the food is not considered late until after the three working days are up. Feeding Livefood An important part of good housekeeping is to feed your livefood on a balanced diet which should include lots of calcium. This is known as 'gut loading' and is a way of getting nutritional food e.g. veg in to a lizards system who would not normally consume vegi material. In the wild insects would consume the greenery that surrounds them, when this insect is then eaten by a lizard the stomach contents of the insect are also consumed by the lizard - you are what you eat! If you only feed a few crickets or locust at a time you may want to buy an inexpensive tank to keep your live food in. This not only allows you to control the diet of the live food but also remove dead ones, skins etc and keep them clean. Good food items include: Bug Grub, cabbage, bran, fruits, carrots etc By correct feeding of your livefood you can better achieve the correct dietary needs for your pet and should be practised routinely Livefood Sizes Section Here's a breakdown of the various sizes of livefood and a suggestion of animals that may take them Crickets:  | Crickets come in a range of sizes or instar levels and make an ideal staple diet for most insectivorous reptiles, amphibians, insects and arachnids. Fresh live crickets contain a range of vitamins and minerals plus protein. As they have a lot of 'meat' to 'chitin' ratio they do not cause internal dietary problems that can be associated with other livefoods. Use card egg boxes to create a 'tent' for them to hide under and feed on Bug Grub, cabbage, bran, fruits, carrots etc - do not put a water dish in with them | - Extra Large
Suitable for Adult Tarantulas
medium to large lizards, large frogs
large toads, adult mantis, adult scorpions etc
- Standard / Large
Suitable for Adult Tarantulas
medium to large lizards, large frogs
large toads, adult mantis, adult scorpions etc
- Medium
Suitable for large Tarantulas
medium to large lizards, large frogs, most treefrogs
large toads, adult mantis, adult scorpions etc
- Medium / Small
Suitable for medium Tarantula spiderlings
small to medium lizards, most toads, most treefrogs
fire salamander, large mantis nymphs, juvenile scorpions etc
- Small
Suitable for medium Tarantula spiderlings
small lizards, most toads, most treefrogs
fire salamander, small (3rd instar) mantis nymphs, juvenile scorpions etc
- Micro
Suitable for small Tarantula spiderlings
baby lizards, baby toads, baby treefrogs, Mantella frogs
baby salamander, small (hatchling) mantis nymphs, hatchling scorpions
Poison Dart frogs
Locust:  | Locust come in a range of sizes or instar levels and make an ideal treat for most insectivorous reptiles, amphibians, insects and arachnids. Fresh live locust contain a range of vitamins and minerals plus protein. As they have a lot of 'meat' to 'chitin' ratio they do not cause internal dietary problems that can be associated with other livefoods so long as they aren't the staple diet. | | Locust are a desert insect and need the driest of conditions to last, they will not tolerate humidity in any way. Keep your spares in a WELL ventilated tank such as an Aquazoo and feed on Bug Grub and green cabbage. Use card egg cartons to make a 'tent' for them to hide under. | - Adult Locust
Suitable for Adult Tarantulas
& large lizards etc
- Extra Large
Suitable for Adult Tarantulas
medium to large lizards, large frogs
large toads, adult mantis, adult scorpions etc
- Large
Suitable for large Tarantulas
medium to large lizards, large frogs, most treefrogs
large toads, adult mantis, adult scorpions etc
- Medium
Suitable for medium Tarantula spiderlings
small to medium lizards, most toads, most treefrogs
fire salamander, large mantis nymphs, juvenile scorpions etc
- Small
Suitable for medium Tarantula spiderlings
small lizards, most toads, most treefrogs
fire salamander, small (3rd instar) mantis nymphs, juvenile scorpions etc
Mealworm:  | Mealworm generally come in 3 types. The standard mealworm is the larval stage of a small black beetle (Tenebrio molitor) and contain a range of vitamins and minerals plus protein. Mealworm are considered to be high in chitin, this is an indigestible material found in the shell or skin. Mealworms are usually sold as 'Standard' or 'Mini', both are the same but at different growth stages. | | Giant mealworms are also available, these are different species altogether (Zoophobas morio) and are referred to as the Morio worm or Giant Mealworms. Mealworms have a disadvantage. They have strong jaws and have been know to chew their way out of small lizards and amphibians. When I'm feeding mealworm to amphibians I normally either snip off their head with scissors or give a firm squish to the mealworms head. This way the mealworm will wriggle more and attract attention so be more likely to be eaten and it will not harm your pet. Keep mealworm in a 3 inch layer of dry bran with some added 'Bug Grub', keep them cool to slow down their growth and drop in some fresh vegetables like carrot, potato, cabbage etc - no onions or garlic! This like the other species of mealworm will regularly shed its skin as it grows, for a real treat catch those that are white as they are very soft amd juicy.... yum yum Mealworms are often bought to feed to wild birds in the garden, any insect eating bird will love your bird table! | - Standard - heads on
Suitable for Adult Tarantulas
& adult mantis, chewing lizards, birds etc
- Mini - heads on
Suitable for large mantis nymphs, birds,
small to medium chewing lizards, small to medium scorpions etc
- Morio - heads on
Suitable for large Tarantulas, birds,
medium to large chewing lizards, mantis nymphs, small scorpions etc If you remove the mealworm heads first then you can feed any of the above to suitable sized pets. Waxworms: |
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